Reprinted from Dermascope, January 2015
by Lydia Jordane, founder of Lycon Cosmetics
I always get asked how to achieve the perfect brow. The eyebrows are one of the most important features of the face. They offer balance, frame the eyes, and help improve the face. Well groomed eyebrows are an easy way to look brighter, make the eyes stand out more, achieve a fresh look by adding a drop of makeup. Hard wax should be used for the eyebrows as it removes very short hair, is easy and quick to use, has longer-lasting results, and can be virtually painless for the client.
STEP 1: Visualize
Begin by analyzing the client’s brow line and their shape to work out what the best look for them would be. Consider the client’s preferences as well. I find the best way to work out the eyebrow shape is to follow these guidelines: First, align a pencil from the inner corner of the eye to the side of the nose. Any hair growth between the eyebrows from this point inward should be removed. Next, place the pencil diagonally from the corner of the nose to the center of the iris. Where the pencil crosses the eyebrow is where the arch or highest point of the eyebrow should be made. Last, place the pencil from the corner of the nose on a line that passes the outer corner of the eye to determine the minimum length of the outward eyebrow point.
STEP 2: Prepare the skin
Cleanse the skin with a suitable skin cleanser to remove oils, makeup, and any surface bacteria. Apply a very small amount of pre-waxing oil on the area to be waxed. Blot off any excess oil. I like to put a couple of drops on the back of my hand to apply. This helps to control the quantity of oil being applied and is then accessible for reapplication during the service. If there is excess oil on the skin, the wax will not grab the hair effectively and if there is not enough oil, the client’s skin could be affected.
STEP 3: Hard wax application
The first wax application should always be applied in the direction of the hair growth. This helps to reduce the possibility of catching any longer hairs that should not be removed with the wax. Start with a small amount of wax on the tip of an applicator stick and spread the wax carefully with good pressure onto the skin underneath the eyebrow. Support the skin before removing the wax, then remove hard wax against the hair growth, as this is the best way to protect the skin and remove more hair each time. (Vogue Beauty recommends Lycojet Lavender hard wax.)
STEP 4: Re-application for the perfect brow
After two initial applications of hard wax in the direction of the hair growth, more hard wax can be applied against the hair growth. This will pick up any stubborn or fluffy hairs left behind. Hard wax can be used several times on the same area without discomfort or skin damage, as long as the pre-waxing oil is reapplied between all hard wax reapplications. Once you are satisfied that you have created the perfect brow, apply your favorite after-waxing care product and show your client the end result!
Practice makes perfect… and remember, confidence is key!