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Trouble Shooting Guide

You will be pleased with the strength, flexibility and natural appearance of a new set of en Vogue nails. After 2 or 3 fills you will have a balance between length, thickness, and client lifestyle. Therefore, it is important for a client to make regular appointments for refills. Make recommendations to your client in regards to proper maintenance, i.e. nails are not tools, keep nails clean, and choose the right length. en Vogue Nail System's products can be customized to the client for optimum strength and elegance.

Air Bubbles

cause:

  • stirring around in product
  • jar upside down
  • "patting" product during application

solutions:

  • remove product carefully from jar
  • when applying product poke into air bubbles and pull out with light strokes
  • pull & drag product when applying

Broken Natural Nail

cause:

  • C-curve too flat
  • free edge too long
  • wrong tip
  • nails filed too narrow
  • client hit nail very hard

solutions:

  • ensure thicker C-curve when applying en Vogue product
  • shorten nails - free edge should never be more than nail bed (recommended length :1/3 - 2/3 of nail bed)
  • for flat nails use a flat tip, for arched nail use an arched tip
  • file nails straight along nail fold, do not taper too narrow at free edge
  • suggest shorter nails to accommodate client lifestyle
  • follow Application for Repair

Bumps on Nails

cause:

  • did not file nails into proper shape, i.e. thin at cuticle; thin at free edge
  • finishing product applied too thick, ran before curing
  • dust particles left on nails

solutions:

  • always check nails while filling, dust well, check C-curve and arch
  • check nails before client places them in the light
  • file away bumps with 100 grit file, dust well, wipe with Prep & Clean - reapply Sealer and cure in light

Cloudy Nails

cause:

  • product applied too thick
  • base of tip not blended in properly
  • product did not cure completely

solutions:

  • do not create a nail that is too thick - always thin at free edge and cuticle with a slight C-curve for strength, depending on length of free edge and nail bed
  • use your dust brush often when filing down base of tip, blend in well for natural appearance
  • when refill is done, file nails down for thinner appearance
  • ensure client places entire hand in light

Crack At Stress Area

cause:

  • applied product too thin
  • too much pressure on file while shaping nails
  • client waiting too long for fill, therefore, C-curve has grown out

solutions:

  • look at nails from side/front while filing into shape
  • develop proper C-curve
  • educate client on importance of regular maintenance
  • file crack down to natural nail, remove shine, wipe with Prep & Clean, follow Application for Repair using fiberglass only if extra strength is required

Damage to Natural Nail Bed/Plate

cause:

  • filing with a low grit file (i.e. 80 or 100 grit) on natural nail
  • filing too long on one spot of natural nail
  • client picking off artificial nail
  • client hitting nail extremely hard, tip breaks off, removing layer of natural nail

solutions:

  • only buff natural nail with 180 grit file to remove all shine
  • always rotate over natural nail when filing - never file too long on one spot
  • explain to client that picking nails will weaken them, if they have to they can buff away lifted area
  • keep nails at a workable length for very active clients
  • follow Application to Repair to reinforce weakened nail to protect weak spots on nails. Pink discoloration (thin nail plate) will grow out. If sidewalls are filed thin, integrate fiberglass gauze for extra support.

Fill Lines

cause:

  • product applied too thick
  • too much file pressure when blending in product
  • lifted area not properly removed before fill

solutions:

  • ensure thin application of product around cuticle area, blend artificial nail into natural nail with 100 grit file. Do not apply heavy pressure as this will bend the natural nail and cause the product to lift more. Push back cuticle and buff natural nail.
  • gently file all lifting off of natural nail before applying product.

Heat Sensation While Curing in Lamp

cause:

  • product applied too thick
  • client hypersensitive
  • nail plate very thin
  • certain medications increase susceptibility (i.e. oral contraceptives, antibiotics, anti-inflammatories, etc.)
  • hormonal changes

solutions:

  • do not apply product too thick
  • apply thinner coats of product - possibly 3 thin coats. Client should remove hand from light for 5 to 10 seconds, allowing nail to cool, return hand to light and continue curing
  • if removal is required more than 2 or 3 times cure twice to ensure complete curing

Iridescent Base Of Tip

cause:

  • too much glue

solutions:

  • do not overuse glue as base of tip could erode while blending in
  • let air dry for 1 or 2 minutes, finish with high grit file

Lifting at Cuticle Area

cause:

  • product cured over cuticle
  • improper nail preparation
  • product too thick around cuticle

solutions:

  • always check nails before curing in light; keep product from cuticle
  • ensure removal of all dry cuticle and oil on natural nail
  • don't push large amounts of product to cuticle area
  • keep cuticle area as thin as possible
  • carefully buff away lifted product

Lifting Between Tip and Outgrowing Natural Nail

cause:

  • air bubble when gluing tips
  • extremely porous natural nails
  • client has hands in water frequently
  • high moisture content in nails

solutions:

  • ensure proper fit of tip i.e. flat nail, flat tip - arched nail, arched tip
  • base of tip never more than 1/2 never less than 1/3 of natural nail plate
  • if client has hands in water frequently, use French Modeling Resin with forms, rather than tips.
  • remove tip but keep existing free edge, file down product to natural nail - follow Application with Forms

Lifting at Free Edge Between Product and Natural Nail

cause:

  • nails were not sealed at free edge
  • client shortened nails in-between fills using an improper file angle
  • product too thin at free edge

solutions:

  • always wrap product around free edge
  • product should be 3 times the thickness of natural nail at the free edge
  • advise client to seal free edge with clear polish
  • buff away any loose product, wipe with Prep & Clean, use nail form, apply product, extend slightly over free edge

Natural Nail Lifting Off Nail Bed

cause:

  • bacteria underneath natural nail
  • client hit nail very hard and lifted natural nail off nail bed by separating hyponycium

solutions:

  • keep nails very clean by using nail brush daily, Apply anti-fungus treatment underneath nail twice daily until nail separation is gone

Removal of en Vogue Product

cause:

  • client no longer wishes to wear artificial nails
  • allergic reaction to product

solutions:

  • shorten nails, then blend artificial nail into natural nail, apply hardener, let nails grow out
  • file artificial nails off, shorten natural nails, use a nail regenerating product daily for conditioning
  • if removal is due to an allergy, refer client to their physician

Removal of Tip Only

cause:

  • glued on crooked
  • glued with air pockets

solutions:

  • remove tip by soaking in acetone for 2 minutes or by buffing off then buff off residue of tip and old glue, clean and apply a new tip.
  • Ensure proper tip choice. Natural nail should be as short as possible before applying tip.

Sculpting Brush Hardening

cause:

  • brush has not been wiped with Prep & Clean after use, or exposed to sunlight

solutions:

  • Always wipe brush with Prep & Clean.
  • do not expose to sunlight

Sealer - Dull

cause:

  • sealer has been applied too thin
  • sealer is contaminated

solutions:

  • Buff off Sealer, wipe nails with Prep & Clean, reapply a thicker layer of sealer

Sealer - Patchy

cause:

  • sealer was applied on oily base

solutions:

  • buff nails with block buffer, dust, wipe with Prep & Clean, reapply sealer

Tip Air Bubbles

cause:

  • chose wrong tip
  • did not prepare tip properly
  • uneven pressure when applying
  • glued tip on at wrong angle
  • free edge of natural nail too long
  • not enough glue

solutions:

  • ensure proper tip choice (i.e. flat nail, flat tip; arched nail - arched tip
  • trim base of tip according to shape of nail - base of tip should not be more than 1/2, not less than 1/3 of natural nail plate
  • keep an eye on free edge area of nail, through tip, if air bubbles appear due to uneven pressure quickly readjust
  • keep natural nail as short as possible before applying tip
  • if air bubble is severe - remove tip and choose better fitting tip and reapply

Tip Splitting Vertical

cause:

  • chose wrong tip
  • shortened tip at wrong angle or dull cutting blade
  • filed free edge too thin

solutions:

  • choose appropriate tip - flat nail - flat tip; arched nail - arched tip
  • hold nail clipper at slight angle to prevent pressure points, or use tip cutter
  • use less pressure when filing free edge (only remove shine)
  • if cracks are severe, remove tip and product - reapply
  • if cracks are only on tip and not on product, shorten nails slightly and protect with hardener, applying it underneath the tip